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010: Fall Trends & New York Fashion Week

The best in fashion and culture from the diaspora and beyond

WELCOME TO SEPTEMBER 🍂

It is indeed a new month, one full of beautiful possibilities and abundant discoveries. While summer is still technically upon us (official autumnal equinox kicks off on September 23), we are taking in all the fall seasonal vibes.

We are grateful for the support and are toying around with the idea of a New York gathering to celebrate IRL. A sincere thank you to our newest Founding Supporters.

In the meantime, delight and savor this space and please share far and wide — one referral makes a huge difference.

Artwork by Freddie L. Rankin II / @flrsglobal

DISPATCH — 010

This week, we toast to the start of the fall art season and ahem kick off Fashion Month. Despite the overwhelming itineraries, we cannot stop thinking about the ready-to-buy Autumn/Winter collections now in store and online — take a look at our round-up of autumnal trends to inspire your dressing.

For the future, we highlight the must-see shows of New York Fashion Week, an interior decorating tip to brighten your space, and an upcoming documentary on the history of modeling. But first, navigating the art world without the crowds…

ART “FAIR” GUIDE — NEW YORK

At times, one can feel a mix of trepidation and enthusiasm going to an art “anything” in New York, but particularly during Armory Art Week, a seasonal onslaught of art fairs anchored by the biggest and namesake of the week The Armory Show. While this fair and others taking place downtown, including Independent 20th Century, Spring/Break, and Art on Paper, can overwhelm even the most seasoned attendee, we’ve opted to give you a smattering of amuse-bouches as a reprieve from the madness.

SANFORD BIGGERS

For his newly opened exhibition “Meet Me on the Equinox,” Sanford Biggers introduces new works in line with his ongoing practice of quilt-based compositions and sculpture. Employing a broader approach of myth-making, Biggers is able to imbue meaning into the mundane and connect symbolic tissues of a singular, yet shared historical narrative. Now open at Marianne Boesky Gallery, 507 W 24th Street.

Sanford Biggers. Knuck, 2023, black polished Marquina marble, antique quilts, rope on custom cedar plinth / @sanfordbiggers

CHASE HALL

His first work-on-paper show “Melanoidin” is now open at Pace Prints at 536 W 22nd Street. A culmination of the last three years of experimentation in print-making, Chase Hall explores alchemic figuration in a series of prints produced via coffee grounds. While in the neighborhood, you can catch his other show up at David Kordansky “The Bathers” at 520 W 20th Street.

Chase Hall. Baylee and The Bandana, 2023, jigsaw relief with coffee grounds and ink on cotton paper, mounted on metal in a cherry wood frame / @hallchase

ED CLARK

“The Big Sweep” takes six decades of Ed Clark’s work into two floors of Chelsea’s Hauser & Wirth. The critical exhibition survey lauds his pioneering practice as an abstractionist working in the post-war era, whose innovative spirit included leveraging push brooms as paint brushes. It is an extraordinary slice of history through the eyes of an artist who paved the way for a generation. Now at Hauser & Wirth, 542 W 22nd Street.

Ed Clark. The Big Sweep’, Photo: Sarah Muehlbauer / @hauserwirth

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK / SEPT 7 - 13

Despite taking the-woe-is-NYFW approach, we are enthusiastic for a great number of talents showing for the first time or back again to fight another day. Take a look!

Photo by Freddie L. Rankin II / @flrsglobal

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 9

— Harbison Studio The Los Angeles based brand has brought an exceptional offering made up of dead-stock materials as part of a sustainability-focused showroom in SoHo.

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 10

— Sergio Hudson Off the back of a groundbreaking year, including dressing Keke Palmer for The Met Gala, Hudson will show his 12th collection and celebrate an incredible milestone for his brand.

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 11

— Diotima A relative newcomer brand making a NYFW debut, bringing both indigenous craftsmanship and seductive savoir-faire to bear in exquisite pieces.

— LaQuan Smith Known for his powerful approach to dressing bold women (his mentors agree), LaQuan Smith is back again with no doubt a show-stopping collection.

LaQuan Smith / @laquan_smith

AUTUMNAL DRESSING: A THESIS

This is our favorite time of year. Well, we’ve said it, so let the bias seep in as we pull together a very top-line trend report. There is truly something about the changing of the seasons and the shedding of the last three months that just brings us joy.

SUMMER SCHOOL EXTENSION

Bringing the ease and simplicity of summer dressing into fall is not such a bad idea — think of it as pieces that can work double duty. Consider backless loafers to bridge that transition from Blackstock & Weber in a variety of colors. We love the oversized blazer to casually drape over the shoulder from Wales Bonner for day or night. What about this cozy striped long-sleeved top by Botter sans trousers paired with aquatic-inspired slides? We’re keen on this Ferragamo dĂ©colletage-bearing top that while in black… is bringing a bit of that summertime energy we relish.

Wales Bonner

Botter

Blackstock & Weber

Ferragamo

MONOCHROMATIC, BUT MAKE IT TEXTURE

The easy nature of a monochromatic set makes it a must-have for dressing in fickle temperatures, when we truly can’t be bothered. This chunky cable-knit set from Bianca Saunders is the kind of comfort we can get behind. How about this Wales Bonner raffia tiered skirt with the oatmeal sweater? It is not often to find a monochromatic look from Feben (which we covered here), so this all-black ensemble with puckering and button detail is a winner. Lastly Ahluwalia offers a head-turning take in a shirred dress of rich pomegranate and pink.

Bianca Saunders

Feben

Wales Bonner

Ahluwalia

ON OUR RADAR

Christopher John Rogers is tag teaming with the esteemed British paint and paper brand Farrow & Ball on a limited-edition collection entitled Carte Blanche. Twelve new paint shades (four neutrals and eight bold) are inspired by CJR’s eclectic collections. (Link)

Ami Cole founder Diarrha N’Diaye-Mbaye is on the latest cover of trade publication Beauty Inc. (Link)

In a recent trend (see: Rele Gallery), Southern Guild is the next gallery to open a second outpost in Los Angeles. Expect to see their carefully curated roster of artists from their native South Africa as well as Kenya, Mali, and Benin stateside in 2024. If you can’t wait until then, you can catch the gallery at The Armory Show this weekend. (Link)

Meet Invisible Beauty, a new documentary showing in select theaters this month. It is the story of fashion revolutionary Bethann Hardison and her journey to build a more inclusive industry. (Link)

Consider this your personal invitation to see the AW23 collection “Roots to Rebel” by Nicholas Daley hosted by Nordstrom on Saturday, September 9. (Link)

Farrow and Ball x Christopher John Rogers / @farrowandball

STAY IN TOUCH

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Until next time — happy September!