015: The Other Queen B & Knitwear Obsessions

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR 🗞️

We’re already halfway through the month!

Last call for access to our first-ever Holiday Gift Guide — we’ve curated a superior selection of one-of-a-kind finds to give you a much-needed head start on the holidays — for paid subscribers only.

As a special incentive, we’re offering a one-time discount for our Founding Supporter tier, so upgrade by October 19 ahead of the launch of the Holiday Gift Guide!

DISPATCH 015 —

This week, we’re witnessing the resurgence of ‘90s power dressing, tapping into the best of 1-54, and a slew of new vehicles incubating emerging talent. Plus: an ode to knitwear, pre-order wishlists, and a little inspiration from Portugal Fashion Week. But first, the other Queen B…

THE POWER OF BONANG MATHEBA

It wouldn’t be the first time we’ve noticed the impressive social dominance of the other Queen B, that is Bonang Matheba, a media personality based in Johannesburg. With over 5 million followers on Instagram alone, it may come as a surprise that she is not a regular fixture on the front row circuit, but may be better for it. She makes national news in South Africa with a single visit to France.

During Paris Fashion Week, she walked the runway as a talent for L’Oreal Paris — a typical scheme of multi-national corporations with imprints across the continent and the budgets to sponsor big names to tout their global relevance.

Off the runway, she rocked a Mmuso Maxwell hand-woven merino wool tunic and Crystal Birch ivory wool felt hat that racked almost 200K likes and later donned gold jewelry and accessories from Adele Dejak and Lafalaise Dion. Matheba represents a powerfully modern role model by mixing diaspora designers with other international brands, including Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. and Bottega Veneta.

Why it matters? Homegrown creatives continue to face narrowly defined boxes that can flatten their aesthetic to any one thing, be it bright colors, wax prints, or any other surface-level descriptor. Matheba’s team is masterful at cultivating her public wardrobe (and its accompanying scrutiny) in a manner that celebrates the diversity of diaspora talent without carting it out for thematic occasions or celebratory history months. It is another example of how fashion as soft power can shape hearts, minds, and economic outcomes.

Looks like you can still purchase the tunic and hat should your heart desire — here’s to the continuance of her reign of stylish consciousness.

KNITWEAR OBSESSIONS

In last week’s dispatch, we highlighted a knit wool hat from New York-based brand Aisling Camps and we haven’t stopped thinking about it since. Quite a few brands presented sumptuous knitwear on the Spring / Summer 2024 runways this past month. What does that mean exactly? For one, it’s a good thing. By the time those collections hit stores in March 2024, the colder weather will necessitate all of those layers.

High quality knitwear can transition from season to season, offer an efficient cost per wear, and can serve as a broadly-appreciated holiday gift.* Shameless plug for our Holiday Gift Guide! In that spirit, we’re sharing our old and new favorites for the cozily-inclined.

AISLING CAMPS

Brooklyn-based label Aisling Camps was founded by a mechanical engineer turned knitwear designer (and a new mother of twins) of the same name. With yarns sourced from Italy, the brand is known for its incredibly luxurious knitwear all made by hand either in Brooklyn or in Emilia-Romagna, Italy by a family-run factory. While her pieces will run you a pretty penny, they are designed to last a lifetime. www.aislingcamps.com

NIA THOMAS

Born and bred New Yorker Nia Thomas started her eponymous line of hand-crafted knitwear in 2018, utilizing cellulose materials and plant-based dyes in vibrant shades of lime green, indigo, and wild marigold. Produced in New York, Peru, and Mexico, her range of designs from wide, open netting to tight, chunky weaves mean you can be as covered up or as exposed as you would like. www.niathomas.co

^* Cost per Wear is calculated by dividing the price of the product by the number of times you intend to wear it. It is a useful metric to help justify paying a higher price for a high-quality item.

ON OUR RADAR

Oakland-based McMullen announced a design incubator Beyond M to support young and emerging talents. Applications for the inaugural class are open until October 30. (Link)

UK label Jakke released their latest collection, which takes inspiration from the 1996 film The Associate with Whoopi Goldberg. Think of a power dressing Wall Street investment banker facing gender bias and giving you the business in a burgundy faux fur coat fit for today. (Link)

In London, 1-54 Contemporary African Art Fair runs through October 15 — highlights include booths from Dada Gallery, Luce Gallery (Hugo McCloud’s floral oil paintings are incredible), and South African gallery BKHz. (Link)

Pre-order is now open for Christopher John Rogers collection 013. You’re welcome. (Link)

In what feels like an unending number of design prizes, Lukhanyo Mdingi is now one of the esteemed finalists for the AMIRI Prize to support new brands with a $100,000 prize and industry mentorship. (Link)

South African designer Judy Sanderson showed a breath of fresh air with robin’s egg blue separates, aquamarine shorts, and lavender dresses at Portugal Fashion Week. (Link)