017: Conscientious Wellness & The Case for Made Of Africa

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR 🗞️

Happy November. As we get closer to the end of the year, we’re in a constant state of reflection and gratitude for what has been a most trying season.

Please keep sharing your questions and thoughts to [email protected] in the meantime. Thank you for your support.

DISPATCH 017 —

This week, we’re impressed by song-based works by Bethany Collins, intrigued with a few interesting stats out of the UNESCO Report, and curious about a new short fashion film. Plus: need-to-know wellness brands and first-ever retail concepts launching from Dakar to Greenwich Village. But first, some thoughts on Made in Africa…

CONTEMPLATING MADE IN AFRICA

Off the back of an inaugural ALARA x Brooklyn Museum partnership, just wrapped Lagos Fashion Week celebration, and even Beyonce’s wardrobe during her Renaissance World Tour, anecdotally, there has never been a more momentous time to be Made In Africa. What took so long? While domestic fashion exports have served other nations well as a soft power tool to denote the ultimate value of a thing beyond its intrinsic properties, it begs the question why the same tactics have not worked to the same effect across the continent?

As the UNESCO report issued last week reveals, a big part of that stems from the late 1980s and early 1990s when World Bank and IMF imposed programs forced African countries to release tariff protections against imports in exchange for debt forgiveness. By doing so, waves of imported fabrics flooded the region that ultimately decimated domestic production that had previously sustained not only the labor market, but also the overall economy.

Economics lessons aside, in the present-day, more and more emerging brands tout Made In Africa (and of course substitute for their respective country of origin) as a part of their authentic storytelling or creative dominance; much the same has been seen in France (champagne), Italy (leather goods), and China (technology) to name a few. While it is certainly valuable to leverage Made in Africa where indigenous or craft traditions are purported, such as adire and bogolan, or even homegrown ingredients, such as shea butter and safou oil, I would argue that the denotation is not as necessary for a brand of today.

The beautiful nature of the African diaspora is that they navigate between the continent and elsewhere with a fluidity rarely matched. There are strong hubs of African talent throughout the world — in a way that frankly France or Italy could not claim. The same traditional constraints of Made In Africa need not apply to diaspora constituents.

Take for example, Telfar, founded by Liberian-American Telfar Clemens, who produces his beloved ‘Bushwick Birkins’ in China. Telfar could be a much bigger brand — in the realm of $500M — with investments in assortment and expansion into new territories. Telfar represents one of the burgeoning talents outside of the continent, but that is an important distinction and defining attribute not to underestimate.

With a broader lens to the small, but growing role diaspora creatives play across the United States and elsewhere, it indicates something that other nations cannot claim. While their goods may not be produced on the continent, these designers represent something of a new phrase to consider, Made Of Africa, which truly may be far more powerful than any statistical figure or geographic limitation could contain.

HEALTH & WELLNESS-CONSCIOUS

Whether inflationary pressures or increasing consumer awareness, there is certainly a concerted desire to get more out of your products, especially ones designed with health benefits in mind. While a single SKU will not solve all one’s woes, careful consumption can be one step in the right direction to getting ahead of health concerns.

DEON LIBRA

Deon Libra is a brand centered on adaptogenic stress care. Adaptogens are extracted from herbs, spices, and fruits and can contribute to boosts in memory as well as restoring balance. By targeting the roots of stress, Deon Libra intends to stave off stress-related illnesses that can gradually worsen one’s health outcomes. Might we add, in the most eye-catching packaging! www.deonlibra.com

BOURII SKIN

London-based Bourii Skin was inspired by the founder’s family health journey. Shirin van Lare built her plant-based multi-purpose skincare on Ayurvedic principles to bring about an alternative approach to achieve balance and healing. Their website is also a treat to experience. www.bourii.com

GOLDE

New York-based beauty company Golde offers pure superfood powders now made even more accessible via Target and Ulta. The family-run brand sources highly efficacious ingredients like mango, chlorella, and spirulina to tackle inflammation, acne breakouts, and wound healing. www.golde.co

ON OUR RADAR

We’re long-time admirers of Bethany Collins and her song-based works, which urgently yet carefully navigate through painfully historic subjects with a deft approach that cultivates curiosity even for the most skeptical. Her latest show “Undercurrents” is now open in New York through December 16. (Link)

With the closing of ALARA x Brooklyn Museum, we’re in luck with another new retail concept on the horizon. Andrea Iyamah is opening a store on Bleecker Street on November 10. Major congratulations! (Link)

In more retail news, Ami Cole recently took to Dakar. Founder Diarrha Ndiaye-Mbaye partnered with a Senegal-based studio to offer her beloved lip oils to West African customers IRL. (Link)

Other interesting stats out of the UNESCO Report: apparently, there are currently 32 fashion weeks in Africa. (Link)

Stills from a new short film out now by concept store T.A. featuring an upcoming collaboration with Vans. (Link)

Another must-see art fair to add to one’s list: Art X Lagos is open through November 5. (Link)