032: Milan Fashion Week Treats & SSENSE A-Z

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR 🗞️

Here’s to an extra turn around the globe and here’s to warmer weather on the way. We’re celebrating the new month with new beginnings.

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This week, we’re taking a peek at lingerie from Torlowei, closing out BHM with SSENSE, and celebrating new work from Nia Thomas. But first, a review from the end of Milan Fashion Week…

BEING FEBEN & BEING FERRAGAMO

Last Sunday, Feben unveiled its Fall / Winter 2024 collection Speed sponsored by D*lce & G*bbana, closing out the undeniably chic Milan Fashion Week. Size inclusivity and material manipulation have been core competencies of the four-year-old brand since launch. The texture cannot be underestimated is how we felt in no short order. In some places, it sang and other looks felt a bit over done, but Feben offered a singular point of view.

Metallic dresses that look like Werther’s Originals wrappers scrunched up were real highlights as well as the mixed material experimentation with chunky ankle cuffs on trouser bottoms (later seen adorning Feben’s arms on the closing bow). Feben expanded beyond the brand’s signature ruched puckering dresses into a new kind of power suit this season. Double-breasted jackets in electric blue and matte black paired well with a whole host of versatile separates, including puffer coats, off-the-shoulder tops, and massive scarves. These assortment extensions should do the brand well in continuing its mission of accentuating diverse body types.

While the color palette was not our total favorite, there was something unforgettable about the putrid yellow-green and light brown shades in a way. Large grommet holes on a faux leather jacket had a similar effect. But the triumphs were sweet. A gown with a folding technique at the waistline constructed as if a giant claw from a toy machine had grabbed the model up backwards was truly superb.

Texture was on the mind of Maximilian Davis at Ferragamo as well. But this time, it was darling feathers and soft micro sequins in lush earthy tones and pops of brightness thrown in. The brand is hitting some exceptional high notes with this collection, continuing to double down on the brand-defining shade of red and the increasingly covetable leather goods and accessories business.

Davis opened the show with strong wool outerwear in muted brown and later burnt rust — the sharp shoulders and luxe cut of the wool and leather punctuated with oversized waist bands brought forth a drastically new take on proportions. In another look, the waist bands appeared as drop waists on flowing sheer gowns that oozed sensuality. The color palette was decidedly Milanese fall, but the on-the-nose of it all was not a flaw. Head-to-toe leather shirts and trousers in monochromatic gunmetal green and butterscotch crema would fit right at home on the greige sidewalks of Via Monte Napoleone.

A homage to his Trinidadian-Jamaican upbringing shone through in embroidered palm tree knits and major fish scale pailettes on a mini dress in saccharine burgundy. The fluffy heels added a playful insouciance and the fantasy of transparent pieces juxtaposed against heavier outerwear made for a lovely and luxurious contradiction on the runway. The feathers re-appeared in a series of mini dresses that dripped like liquid vinyl, bringing the day-to-night feels to full force.

It was hard not to see parallelisms to reigning champ of Bottega Veneta, Matthieu Blazy, where his heavy-fringed skirts and intrecciato confections continue to garner serious attention and serious sales. Milan celebrates craft on all stages, big and small, but woven bags and fringe skirts are not the sole domain of one Italian brand. Feben and Ferragamo proved there is more than one POV on how to put forth an edgy and effortless ensemble.

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ON OUR RADAR

Lagosian lingerie-inspired brand Torlowei is hosting a pop-up at the iconic British department store Harrods now through March 15. Founded by mother-daughter duo Patience Torlowei and Mojisola Adegbile, the brand has expanded its assortment into caftans, evening dresses, and outerwear. (Link)

To close out Black History Month, Montreal-based retailer SSENSE and Essence Magazine partnered on an A-Z Designer Guide and a three-part video series In The Studio, taking viewers inside the creative minds and spaces of Bianca Saunders, Mowalola Ogunlesi, and Stanley Raffington. (Link)

Inspired by family photos and Studio 54, Nia Thomas has a new collection available for pre-order. Order by Friday, March 8 to receive by April/May. Happy Shopping! (Link)

Nifemi Marcus-Bello for CB2 has arrived. The industrial creative produced a set of Italian marble dining tables designed to last a lifetime. (Link)

Major congratulations are in order for Judy Sanderson, the newest grand prize winner and recipient of 40,000 euro cash grant from the Maison Mode Mediteranee Endowment Fund. (Link)