036: Master Tailors & Bayou Barbie

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR 🗞️

Alas, we have entered into April and we’re keen on themes of community and honoring authentic spaces that champion collaboration.

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DISPATCH 036 —

This week, we’re highlighting a special gathering to celebrate a sophomore publication, sharing a few thoughts on Bayou Barbie and that Vogue shoot, and eager for the latest in design come next week in Milan. Plus: retail expansion and leisurely oil paintings. But first, meet an emerging Nigerian bespoke label…

MEET VICNATE, MASTER TAILOR

This luxury brand has quietly been on the rise and only become much buzzier since late last year. Founded by Victor Anate in 2019, the evening wear label has achieved a few major milestones, including: hosting private trunk shows at high-end retailers Zinkata and ALÁRA, dressing stars for the 2024 Emmys, and working with industry icons such as Funmi Iyanda, Naomi Campbell, Eku Edewor, and Ituen Basi.

Anate cuts his garments with a certain figure in mind — an unabashedly strong woman full of ambition, passion, and femininity. He sometimes even goes so far as to develop full-fledged back stories that can further humanize these protagonists and help consumers see themselves in the pieces.

The latest collection No. 7 contends with a “dedicated study of pre-existing shapes and style combinations proposed by older designers whose work [they] admire” according to a brand statement. It is an apt acknowledgement as many of the pieces do not appear entirely original, but rather incorporate distinctive details to enchant the eye without straying too far out of the bounds of familiarity.

The brand leads with strong silhouette as a guiding principle and immaculate tailoring as a foundation — for example in Look 4, from the front, the one-shoulder gown has a shortened hem and elongated train in the same material; but from the back, the peek-a-boo of royal blue interior lining is an unexpected element of playfulness in what could otherwise be seen as a pretty classic look.

In our view, the star of the show is Look 7 — a golden mesh crochet overdress done in partnership with knitwear brand Studio IMO. It is the combination of the formality of the tulle gown and the fluidity of the netting material that truly does reflect something fresh. While we could have done with less volume in the skirt, the unexpected material pairing could lend itself well to future pieces.

Through defined house codes reiterated by the same models and photographers with each collection, Vicnate reinforces the elevated brand image and overall desirability of the strong silhouette. Did we mention everything is bespoke? Certainly something to consider for that very special occasion.

S/S 2024 CONTINUED

We’re back with part deux of a Spring / Summer 2024 trend report based on our steadfast analysis and acute observation of persistent visual inspirations. Take a look!

INFORMAL FORMALITY

We touched on this lightly in Classics Reimagined last week, but bringing tiny elements of formalwear (i.e. suiting, satin, a pleat) into more casual options is a welcome trend this season. Leading the pack to no surprise is Grace Wales Bonner, whose formal training in tailoring peeks its head into almost everything she makes. This nylon parka with cummerbund is a moment. But this sequin vest and short combination from Jamaican-led brand Theophilio claims the top spot to best encapsulate the trend. The unconventional fabrication in a rather simple silhouette speaks to this broader desire to add intrigue to the everyday.

ARTISTIC INCLINATION

A number of designers explored the visual arts within their Spring / Summer 2024 collections — ranging from body prints a la David Hammons at Feben to screen-printed tanks at British-based Tolu Coker. The impact was certainly a refreshing shift away from the heavy monochromatic focus of “Quiet Luxury” Fall / Winter 2023 last year. Even BOTTER, which leans more into graphic logo design, explored a more poetic take with a patchwork painting awash a proper coat. For Torisheju, it was all sculptural inspiration, bringing the figurative concept into a literal work of art.

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ON OUR RADAR

Small Hours Magazine, produced by New York-based brand Oree, is inviting you to view their Issue 002 at LICHEN over a two-day celebration this weekend. With a focus on highlighting creatives across disciplines, the collaborative activation will bring the subject matter in the issue to life and introduce you to a community of talents working today. Open April 6 and April 7. (Link)

Kilentar has joined famed Victoria Island stockist Temple Muse. Kilentar is a modern heritage brand, which creates contemporary designs that leverage the popularity of rich cultural fabric traditions throughout the African continent. With a dedicated presence IRL, if the turnout from their launch event is any indication, expect everything to sell out. (Link)

In other retail news, Andrea Iyamah’s Spring / Summer 2024 collection has finally arrived to their New York flagship. (Link)

Visual artist Danielle Mckinney unveils Quiet Storm, a new exhibition of oil paintings featuring solitary female protagonists steeped in scenes of leisure and respite. Courtesy of Marianne Boesky Gallery and open now through April 27. (Link)

Yes, that Angel Reese (otherwise known as Bayou Barbie) was recently featured in Vogue as she announced her decision to declare for the WNBA Draft. While not a particularly elevated concept, Reese looked stunning in head-to-toe looks from Diotima and Wales Bonner. (Link)

Headed to Milan after Venice? Embark on Milan Design Week for a second chance to see Nigerian industrial designer Nifemi Marcus-Bello’s work Omi Iyo (translating to Salt Water in Yoruba) that first debuted at Design Miami/2023. On view at Palazzo Litta from April 15 - 21. (Link)