038: Basotho Heritage & High-Fashion Streetwear

WELCOME BACK FRIENDS 🌱

This week, we’re focused on being present and taking full advantage of a few warmer days in New York. Elsewhere, South African Fashion Week is in full swing while the Salone del Mobile-Venice Biennale double-header has left a sensory overload in all the best ways.

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DISPATCH 038 —

This week, we’re highlighting more funding for an emerging B2B platform, cheering on a burgeoning hotel in Philadelphia, and giving a sneak peek of another art fair headed to New York City. Plus: the return of a 2010s darling and painted Venetian ceilings. But first, the need-to-know names of SAFW…

BEST OF SOUTH AFRICAN FASHION WEEK

Now in its 28th iteration, South African Fashion Week is on through April 20. Known for championing homegrown talent, SAFW brings 34 designers over three days to unveil their Spring / Summer 2024 collections (some of which are already available for sale) — here are a few names to know. Take a look!

FIKILE SOKHULU

KwaZulu-Natal-based designer Fikile Sokhulu leans into elements of feminism and romanticism in her eponymous contemporary label. A minimalist color palette grounds her inclination towards loads of ruffles, pleated flowers, and sensual draping techniques.

THABO MAKHETHA

Lesotho-born womenswear designer Thabo Makhetha-Kwinana is deeply inspired by her Basotho heritage, including a century-old tradition of status symbol blankets with deep cultural roots to the region. This season, the brand explores similar motifs on varied leather fabrications.

COLLAB ALERT!

Jean Paul Gaultier recently announced its next collaboration partner would be none other than Shayne Oliver (currently of Shayne Oliver Group and formerly of Hood By Air). For those not familiar with the 2010s New York high-fashion streetwear era, Oliver and HBA led the boundary-breaking charge and sort of became a precursor to the changing consumer preference that would later propel Virgil Abloh of Off-White (2013), Samuel Ross of A-COLD-WALL* (2015), and Jerry Lorenzo of Fear of God (2013). HBA also no doubt inspired established European houses to try their hands at luxury streetwear.

Critically, HBA dominated during a time period marked by a strong American fashion landscape which culturally outshone independent European brands. Public School was tasked to lead DKNY (2015-2016), the duo behind Opening Ceremony took on Kenzo (2011-2019), and Alexander Wang went to Balenciaga (2012-2015). To be a young American designer in the 2010s was challenging, but for those that made it to the top, it meant the world’s eyes were watching.

Oliver, who started the brand with Raul Lopez of LUAR fame, officially put the brand on hiatus in 2017 (arguably just after its peak) before taking on a short stint at Helmut Lang. In 2023, he launched a new independent project outside of HBA.

May 6 marks the date of the collaborative ready-to-wear capsule collection between Oliver and Jean Paul Gaultier, which happens to be the same date as the Met Gala. Oliver has a talent for culturally relevant design, so anticipate an subversive sportswear collection infused with classical Gaultier’s irreverence.

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ON OUR RADAR

1-54 Contemporary African Art Fair is heading back to New York starting May 1. Coinciding with Frieze New York, the 10th edition will highlight 30+ galleries with 70+ artists from Africa and the global diaspora. (Link)

Funding watch continues — this time, The Folklore, a B2B platform for emerging fashion designers, lands $3.4 million in a seed funding round led by Benchstrength with participation from existing investors, bringing the overall total to $6.2 million raised since launch in 2018. Founder Amira Rasool plans to use the funding to reinforce the company’s transition from B2C to B2B focus. (Link)

Curated by Aindrea Emelife, the Nigeria Pavilion at the Venice Biennale brings together an all-star roster of visual artists, including Yinka Shonibare CBE RA and Toyin Ojih Odutola. A delight amongst the group is the site-specific oil painting by Tunji Adeniyi-Jones inspired by the city’s rich architectural history hanging from the ceiling of the Palazzo Canal. (Link)

Philadelphia boutique hotel Yowie secured a spot on Travel & Leisure’s Top 100 Best New Global Hotels of 2024. Congratulations! (Link)