055: New York's Return & The African Gaze

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR 🗞️

We’re back and deep into all of the twists and turns of fashion month. New York Fashion Week wrapped up to much critical acclaim, with loads of reporting detailing the industry’s return thanks to emerging designers bringing seismic energy (i.e. Diotima, Zankov, Luar) and powerhouse maisons making much-needed appearances, including Alaia at Guggenheim — need we say more?

As always, please reach us at [email protected] with any tips or questions.

DISPATCH 055 —

This week, we’re saving up for Mabeo Studio x DWR, taking notes on autumnal capsules, and exploring a new photography tome. Plus: the fall art season begins. But first, diving into the best of New York Fashion Week…

NYFW IN REVIEW

As teased above, the media loves to rally the return of something, be it the return of short hemlines or the rise of nostalgia-core. Most times, these types of proclamations feel overwrought (like that time every news outlet wanted to convince us that ‘mob wife’ aesthetic mattered). This time around, the fanfare feels spot-on — New York Fashion is indeed back (with a capital B). Take a look at who moved the needle this Spring / Summer 2025 season.

DIOTIMA

CFDA nominations are in and Rachel Scott of Diotima is freshly in consideration for the 2024 American Womenswear Designer of the Year Award. Securing the win would be a fitting cherry to a whirlwind year, which has seen the Jamaican designer get married and release back-to-back collections that have championed homegrown techniques with a modern interpretation. For Spring / Summer 2025, Scott took her signature notes and pulled her aesthetic through-line into other textural expressions and color ways. Shown salon-style, models walked the space in ocean blue and cloud white sweater sets imbued with iridescent beading and wool coats with inlaid crochet panels. The great tailoring that has defined Scott’s work continues to be her compass.

SEBASTIEN AMI

Last dispatch, we teased our curiosity for relative newcomer Sebastien Ami led by Sebastien Amisial and Marianne Brehmer. The Spring / Summer 2025 collection “LIFE” is part of the ‘see now, buy now’ trend of yore, so pieces will be in effect be available starting on September 16. Certain elements sing, including the delicate jewel tones, the tissue netted tanks, and the sumptuous neutral knits. The casting was super-specific and helpful in sketching out a nascent ecosystem; one example including recruiting the Griggs Brothers to model. The twins have also previously collaborated with Scottish-Jamaican designer Nicholas Daley. Where there was room for careful consideration was in the styling — a critical opportunity to fine tune the target client, especially if they are expected to purchase stock in a few days.

LONDON FASHION WEEK TIDBITS

This London Fashion Week marks the 40th anniversary of one of the foremost cultural hubs for subversive, independent, and inventive design. For now, we’re giving you a straight-from-the-show gut reaction to one of our most-watched labels: plus the schedule of what to expect the rest of the week.

FEBEN

Feben was very ladylike (in its way) for its Spring / Summer 2025 collection released yesterday. Appropriately entitled ‘Reign,’ the show brought together many elements we adore — including the twist on traditional polka dots that morph instead into white blobs, the suit jacket-turned-dress in satin, and the structurally beaded dresses that require a certain level of consciousness. Feben is serving up a hearty offering and we’re ready to indulge.

SCHEDULE HIGHLIGHTS

AHLUWALIA — SEPT 14

TOLU COKER — SEPT 15

LABRUM LONDON — SEPT 16

ON OUR RADAR

New book alert! The African Gaze: Photography, Cinema and Power by Amy Sall is finally available in the US. A comprehensive survey of postcolonial and contemporary African photography and cinema, Sall captures her course work in an accessible and visually stimulating manner. (Link)

Founded by Peter Mabeo, Mabeo Studio is one of the most interesting design practices out of Botswana. His studio has unveiled an extraordinary furniture collection with Design Within Reach. Thank us later. (Link)

September officially marks the start of the fall art season. Two shows to watch — in an homage to his Caribbean roots and complicated impact of tourism, Paul Anthony Smith presents Antillean at Chelsea’s Jack Shainman. Further uptown, White Cube proffers a deeply emotional showing (and first solo exhibition) of Ghanaian artist Ibrahim Mahama with A SPELL OF GOOD THINGS. (Link / Link)

In real business news, Bergdorf Goodman announced Harbison and Aisling Camps as newest members of BG Radar, an seasonal incubator program. Building up strong wholesale accounts is part and parcel of survival in this incredibly fickle industry. Separately, red carpet darling Harbison has also secured another retailer collaboration with Nordstrom. The capsule “A Curious Flower” features autumnal knits, a few going-out dresses, and floral-print accessories. (Link / Link)

Senegalese fashion designer Selly Raby Kane showed a collection on Saturday in Paris. We cannot wait to dig into all of the pieces in a future dispatch. (Link)