063: London Fashion Week Review & Early Spring Edit

WELCOME TO MARCH 💫

This month, we’re bringing you our first seasonal edit for early spring dressing — one that is much more reflective of the current cooler temperatures. In other news, we are gearing up for Paris Fashion Week and looking forward to all of the upcoming arts happenings in Lagos and Venice.

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DISPATCH 063 —

This week, we’re spotlighting British-Nigerian fashion designer Tolu Coker, savoring sweet jams and sage-infused honey, and penciling in an exhibition as part of Lagos Gallery Weekend. Plus: final selects for La Biennale di Venezia and a UK archive sale. But first, a look back at 10 years for American artist Arthur Jafa…

A DECADE ON, ARTHUR JAFA REFLECTS

The room was abuzz with anticipation as visual artist Arthur Jafa greeted a few folks in the front of the auditorium and prepared to take the stage alongside curator Thomas Lax. This was the first public program dedicated to Jafa’s Artist’s Choice exhibition Less Is Morbid at The Museum of Modern Art. Energetically, it was a wholly refreshing gathering as far as art world programming can go. Jafa appeared free-flowing and associative, curious and giddy, unassuming and open to share — the audience was the ultimate beneficiary.

In a year already marked by run it back energy, 2016 edition, this fireside chat felt even more poignant than usual. Jafa was tasked to ruminate on his artistic career over the past decade. First unveiled in November 2016, his work Love Is The Message, The Message Is Death debuted in Harlem at Gavin Brown’s Enterprise with much less visibility, but no less impactful than his 2026 curatorial offering. Both exhibitions grazed against an intensely emotional political landscape shaping the United States, with Love Is The Message, The Message Is Death opening a few days after the 2016 presidential election and Less Is Morbid against the current maelstrom that defies understanding.

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LONDON FASHION WEEK REVIEW

British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker secured a surprise royal stamp of approval for her A/W 2026 runway show Survivor’s Remorse held at the British Fashion Council’s NewGen venue at 180 Strand. Mining her personal histories growing up in West London, Coker’s set design depicted archival childhood images and neighborhood vignettes, laying the groundwork for her version of black culture in the UK. In her own words, “This show is my ode to Britain and London in truth. To social mobility and the council estate spaces that incubated me through adolescence, joy, grief, guilt and finding my way back home.”

The Central Saint Martins graduate has spent the past five years building her brand under the BFC NewGen umbrella and Survivor’s Remorse marks an important juncture. Coker counts Liberty London, Net-A-Porter, and ALÁRA as stockists and the establishment support for emerging talent can have significant outcomes for the long-term viability of a brand. Case in point: King Charles III sat on the front row.

In six seasons, Coker’s talent for structured tailoring through her exaggerated pointed collars, thick width ties, and high-waisted pleated skirts have become verifiable signatures. The singularity is appreciated. The opening look established a commanding tone. Layers of black silk in a collarless vest and a high-slit pleated skirt advanced ideas from her earlier collections. The all-black looks were indeed favorites, because they unapologetically demonstrated how deeply consistent her brand ethos has become.

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SEASONAL EDIT: MARCH 2026

Early spring has us in our feels — where warmer weather is just beyond our grasp and the threat of a brisk and unexpected chill means that layering has become a critically strategic proposition. Here’s what has come across our eye this month.

• Tolu Coker Banana Cutout High-Rise Barrel-Leg Jeans (Link)

  • Editor’s Note: Need we say more? Coker brings her design signature to bear in a formidable pair of jeans, that can be dressed up and dressed down for all types of transitional weather.

• Pleasure Study No. 3 by Freddie L. Rankin II (Link)

  • Editor’s Note: A study informed by the pleasures in life, this framed photographic work causes you to slow down and take in all of the tone-on-tone textures before you.

• Wales Bonner Ashby Jumper (Link)

  • Editor’s Note: Made in England in partnership with British knitwear legend John Smedley, trust the staying power of this layer-able wool pointelle sweater in bark, ivory, and navy.

• Diotima Basseterre Dress (Link)

  • Editor’s Note: This jersey knit dress with chenille tubular trim detailing can stand on its own or paired with your choice of long-sleeved garment underneath.

• The Golden Hour Set by As Ever (Link)

  • Editor’s Note: Recommended by a friend, Meghan Markle certainly knows what’s what with this limited-edition set of simple treasures to comfort you as the early morning light settles in. Herbal teas, fruit spreads, and honey infused with sage all come together in satisfying goodness.

ON OUR RADAR

Wales Bonner is back with its London Archive Sale on March 7 and March 8. Mainline and collaboration collections will be on offer at Young Space [85-87 Southgate Road, N1 3JS] (Inbox)

Lagosian multi-brand concept store ALÀRA is hosting a year-long curatorial residency with “FF” (aka Faridah Folawiyo, the daughter of ALÀRA Founder Reni Folawiyo). Her second solo exhibition J’ai vu des choses que j’ai imaginées (I saw things I imagined) features work by French-Senegalese painter Rachel Marsil. Debuting during Lagos Gallery Weekend (March 5 - 8), join the opening reception on March 7. (Link)

Late curator Koyo Kouoh’s impact as the first African woman to lead the Venice Biennale will continue to reverberate in this year’s 61st edition and beyond. The team enacting her vision to a tee have unveiled the 111 artists who will contribute to this upcoming edition, including: Nick Cave, Torkwase Dyson, Linda Goode Bryant, Kambui Olujimi, Ebony G. Patterson, Cauleen Smith, Kennedy Yanko, and Wangechi Mutu amongst others. La Biennale di Venezia opens May 9, 2026. (Link)