065: D2C Darlings & Expanding Into Exotics

WELCOME BACK 💫

With Fashion Month behind us, tariff watch in constant flux, and chain multi-brand retail in decline, building a thriving fashion business continues to be as complicated as ever.

We were recently reminded of the power of D2C (direct-to-consumer) and the benefits of controlling the brand experience; particularly, across digital touch points appealing to a broad global consumer base. No longer is it enough to purchase from your favorite brand, but now it is fundamentally vital to consider the most direct way to perform one’s patronage. Below, we’re sharing a few D2C websites that have caught our eye plus: our usuals suspects of curiosity.

As always, please reach us at [email protected] with any tips or questions.

DISPATCH 065 —

This week, we’re digging into D2C websites doing it well and sharing the latest on Martine Rose's new Italian financial backer. Plus: sculptural sunnies, exotic handbags, and a furniture residency at V&A. But first, concept stores are so back…

A PARISIAN CONCEPT STORE

Two weeks ago, tucked away on Rue Cauzel in the 9th arrondissement, a burgeoning concept store founded by French-Cameroonian designer Ornella Djoukui of fashion house Kroskel opened its doors. While initially confusing, it appears that rather than dedicate a brick-and-mortar solely to her own brand, Djoukui has brought the universe of Kroskel to life, with the help of other brands she admires.

Stocking a strong stable of favorites — Porto-based brand Judy Sanderson, Ivorian menswear label Kente Gentleman, and Kenyan jeweler Adele Dejak — Djoukui has wisely curated brands that speak to her values of a continental offering and align with Kroskel’s USP (unique selling proposition) without cannibalization. Now this is a meaningful channel to fortify one’s business (albeit at a much smaller scale).

These spaces, however small, do the good work needed in today’s fashion ecosystem — building real relationships with loyal consumers who give not only their hard-earned dollars, but also their rarely-available time. The pieces feel hand-selected and one-of-a-kind, planting seeds in one’s closet that will likely pay off in an enviable archive. There was a time (in the not too distant past) when one had a feeling going into a favorite store, heading to the dressing room, trying something on, and bringing that special gem home — now less and less people seemingly have that experience, but in-person cannot be beat, especially when it comes to discovery.

We’ve written about our fair share of ‘niche-by-design’ concept stores (here and here). As one can imagine, some have since shuttered in the preceding years, so we’re glad to hear when a new one rears its ‘40sqm’ head.

DOING D2C WELL

How to define ‘doing well’ in direct-to-consumer? In our books, the criteria is relatively straightforward. What makes us want to return time and time again? It can be weekly product drops, compelling editorial or educational content, or pure aesthetics and operational ease. Here are a few that have captured our attention and our wallets.

Klur

When it comes down to advanced skincare, education is as important as efficacy. Lesley Thornton, an esthetician-turned-beauty founder launched Klur to offer botanical care for optimal skin health. Her approach to intentionally grow her brand over the past seven years means that she has largely avoided the perennial traps of distribution through major beauty retailers and focused primarily on smaller outlets. On her own site, her team is regularly sharing its science-backed findings in content ranging from ‘sugar and your skin’ to ‘connecting with nature.’ Both useful from an SEO and engagement perspective, consumers are not simply looking for the latest trending ingredients, but also to truly understand suitability for one’s skincare needs. (Link)

IAMISIGO

Founded by Nigerian designer Bubu Ogisi, IAMISIGO’s site takes you back to the dial-up era with its desktop interface, changeable backgrounds, and retro fonts. The very design makes exploration and tinkering around an intrinsic aspect of the user experience. While we wish there was a “normal” toggle mode to facilitate shopping (in the traditional sense if so desired), we do value how its quirky aesthetic threads quite nicely with the ethos of Ogisi’s arts and craft brand. (Link)

Christopher John Rogers

Christopher John Rogers has stood out by not necessarily showing on the fashion week schedule. The advantages are manifold, but the biggest one (in our minds) is the cost-saving benefit of diverting funds from an expensive runway show into the business itself. In each season where no runway show takes place, the brand drops a look book and even better, makes the look book shop-able for a limited time. With carte blanche access to the full collection, this is one’s best shot of securing coveted selects via pre-order. While you may have to stave off instant gratification, making your own selects (and not from a retailer’s limited assortment) is still quite a rare opportunity across brands at all life stages. Capturing these beautiful images and preparing the operations to successfully execute on a pre-order program is not for the faint of heart. More than 16 seasons in, CJR makes the case that good things come to those who wait. (Link)

ARTFULLY INCLINED SUNNIES

At least once a quarter, we seemingly stumble upon new season accessories; and yet again, Kimeze tops the list, bringing Italian craftsmanship and artistic flair in spades. Designed in London by sisters Clare and Christina Kimeze, these one-of-one sunglasses in Mazzuchelli acetate introduce new shapes into the mix — meet Oré, an elongated rounded silhouette in stone and Concept 3, a more classic cat eye in green. Lest you forget, Christina Kimeze is a trained artist recently signed with Hauser & Wirth. Enjoy!

ON OUR RADAR

Jamaican-Chinese handbag purveyor Brandon Blackwood has launched an expansion into exotics. In his words, “moving forward, I’m embracing a new approach to design and presentation, one that mirrors my own evolution. The aesthetic, materials, and visuals of our upcoming collections will reflect my growth and the refined direction of the brand.” Releasing via D2C on March 27. (Link)

Multidisciplinary artist Shanti Bell joins London’s Victoria & Albert Museum for an artist residency courtesy of Adobe in Furniture and Placemaking. Her one-year stint will tackle spatial design, sculpture, and experiential furniture, “pushing these boundaries…that consider the body and space through materials and craft.” (Link)

As reported in our last dispatch, London-based incubator-accelerator Tomorrow Ltd (behind A-COLD-WALL* and Coperni) has been acquired by Italian firm Progetto 11 — here’s hoping Martine Rose can relaunch production for Fall 2026 season in time to deliver to stores. (Link)