002: Barbiecore meets West Africa

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR 🗞️

Happy Friday! Welcome to another weekly dispatch from PROTOChic, bringing you the very best in fashion and culture from the diaspora and beyond.

Our ambition is to share the need-to-know brands, trend-setters, creatives and storytellers shaping the multitude of narratives on the continent and elsewhere. Tune in weekly and keep your eyes open for more details on the official paid subscription starting August 4th — please share far and wide.

In the meantime, enjoy this space and reach out to [email protected] with any tips or questions.

DISPATCH 002 —

This week, our team discovers the canvas tote bag du jour via Japan and Brooklyn, checks in with Nigeria’s first skateboard brand, and offers our style reco on all the barbiecore mania. Our editorial director rounds up iconic concept stores before we settle into slow footwear and share some final reflections on haute couture. But first, meet waf.

THE INTERVIEW / waf.

Launched in 2012, Nigeria’s first skateboard brand started as WAFFLESNCREAM before transitioning into its current iteration as waf. Lauded for its social mission (including lobbying governments for public skate parks across West Africa) and its enviable fits, waf. is a story of community-building from the ground up and to no surprise, the brand has caught the eye of discerning collectors. Now made even more accessible at the ALARA x Brooklyn Museum shop open through October — we check in with founder Jomi Marcus-Bello to see how it all came to be and what’s next on the horizon.

How did waf. get involved in the ALÁRA x Brooklyn Museum space?

We got invited by our family at ALÁRA. We have been collaborators for the last 5 years. I guess it was a good fit taking us on the journey with them. We are forever grateful for including us.

How do you hope the pop-up space will help your brand?

First of all, the pop-up space is really dope. It's a privilege to have it in the Brooklyn Museum as it's an iconic monument for our cousins in America. Also it's an opportunity to have a snippet into the mind of Mrs F. (Reni Folawiyo), the mighty force behind ALÁRA. She has been creating installation spaces in Lagos for years. We have been looking forward for the West to see what we’ve been experiencing here in Nigeria. So to be a part of that has helped amplify her voice and the spirit of ALÁRA. For our brand, it has brought more eyes and hopefully, people will look into us and the work we’re doing.

What are beloved products you would recommend?

The waf. ALÁRA capsule, our first box knit shirt, and our loafers we made with Dakotas.

This interview has been condensed for clarity. Images courtesy @wflsncrm

RETAIL ROUNDUP: FROM ABIDJAN TO OAKLAND

Nothing better than finding a one-of-a-kind piece from an ultra curated shop that you stumble across on a relaxing holiday. Be it vintage or brand-new, even in your home town, concept stores can bring you the joy of discovering something special. More and more, brands work wisely with these niche retailers to tailor the assortment with a personal touch by the founder, so the experience feels truly singular. If you’re up for the hunt, take a look at our short list —

• New York | T.A. New York | Founded by Telsha Anderson-Boone, expect to find LUAR and Christopher John Rogers in her well-appointed Meatpacking space. Also trust T.A. New York is a magnet for limited edition drops of all sorts and a rotating selection of books.

• Lagos | ALÁRA | As our guest interviewee Jomi Marcus-Bello can attest to, ALÁRA signifies a monumental mission and the exacting aesthetic of its founder Reni Folawiyo. Experience its ephemeral space in Brooklyn (through October) for a tiny taste of the Lagos flagship.

• Oakland | McMullen | West Coast bound? Personal favorites include a set of wine glasses from Estelle Colored Glass, a rare Lisa Folawiyo embroidered dress, and knitwear by Aisling Camps. Be immersed in generational inspiration curated by Sherri McMullen.

• Abidjan | ABY | With a value-oriented idea of luxury across beauty and fashion, ABY has an exquisite roster of West African brands, such as Laurence Airline, Loza Maleombho, and Orange Culture. Focused on cultural distinction, the pieces are not only beautiful, but also meaningful.

BARBIECORE, WE WOULD BE REMISS

While not our typical purview, we simply couldn’t resist pulling together the most barbiecore pieces featuring a dreamy tasseled strapless gown from Abiola Olusola, a hand-beaded heart-shaped bag from Maira Champ, a tulle ruffled mule from Madamette, and last but not least power suiting replete with black piping from Sergio Hudson. Pantone 219 C may be over by next week, but until then bask in all its rosy splendor.

ON OUR RADAR

Blackstock & Weber, best known for its buttery leather loafers made in Portugal, has been quietly expanding into other categories. Meet the Harvest Tote made for quite literally everything in collab with Japanese brand TEMBEA. (Link)

Ghanaian brand Christie Brown dropped another installment of its SS23 line this week. Think beautiful tailoring, rich fabrications, and a few standout pieces have already sold out. Here’s hoping for an expeditious restock. (Link)

kkerele makes footwear that is truly a piece of art. Made to order by their design studio exploring simple yet bold forms, start your process now. (Link)

Imane Ayissi has been a guest on the haute couture calendar since 2020 — no small feat considering the barriers to entry associated with doing so. No matter for Ayissi who put forth a bevy of exceptional technique, including bazin teinté. (Link)