037: Statement Coats & Spring Home

WELCOME BACK FRIENDS 🌱 

…to another weekly dispatch highlighting the best of diaspora creatives across fashion, beauty and culture. We’re keeping things short and sweet this week — taking a turn in Joburg and another in VC land.

We hope you enjoy and as always, any tips or questions, reach out to [email protected].

DISPATCH 037 —

This week, we’re seeing what’s new at Dover Street Market, giving a much-needed heads-up on a statement coat, and analyzing celebrity sightings in Lagos. Plus: early spring home decor and an update on dressing Hollywood. But first, a fresh round of funding for a skincare brand to watch…

FUNDING UPDATE

Good news for three-year old skincare brand Eadem that announced this week an undisclosed investment from Fable Investments.

Fable Investments, the venture arm of Natura &Co, highlighted one factor as the brand’s “stunning debut at Sephora US.” It is a significant accomplishment all things considered and the power of Sephora’s US distribution, which counts 1,400 doors and over 340 brands in its full network, is not to be underestimated — a milestone Eadem celebrated roughly six months ago. Distribution at Sephora remains one of the most valuable ways for consumers (and increasingly younger demographics) to discover emerging brands online and more importantly, in store.

Founded by Marie Kouadio Amouzame and Alice Glover, Eadem recently launched its fourth product — an exfoliating toner — that aligns with the ‘smart melanin’ positioning the brand has led with since launch. The three other products include a cleanser, moisturizer, and serum.

Building a strong business with Sephora certainly sets the foundation for continued growth and awareness, especially fostering in-store trial for net new consumers. Without knowing the exact terms of the investment, our guess would be that the brand’s near-term goals are to speed up product development and expand assortment. Although young brands can be quite resource constrained, the highly competitive nature of the sector often requires brands to lead with newness in order to meet aggressive growth targets set by venture capitalists.

Another investment factor for Fable Investments beyond the strong distribution was Eadem’s differentiated positioning centered on melanin-rich skin. The focus on inclusive beauty is certainly operationally easier for those building from scratch — the decisions Eadem has made thus far to test on a broader range of skin tones will hopefully pay off nicely as consumer preferences for inclusive testing continue to grow.

Fable Investments’ connection to Natura &Co also lends itself well as a possible acquisitor for Eadem in the future. According to its website, Natura &Co prides itself on being “a connected network of socially conscious global beauty brands.” Their current portfolio includes Aesop, The Body Shop, Natura, and Avon. Eadem may just be the perfect fifth, but only time will tell.

STATEMENT COATS FROM SOUTH AFRICA

To be clear, we understand it’s not exactly the season, but consider this one to be tucked away for future purposes. Sometimes you just need a reminder to save for later. Rich Mnisi, the designer behind the eponymous South African label started in 2015, is no stranger to bold maximalist prints and minimalist silhouettes.

As part of the forthcoming Autumn / Winter 2024 collection, Mnisi launched the Art Argyle Coat. Leveraging inspiration from Pierrot and the idea of performative identity expression, this coat is a perfect paradoxical delight — the playful pattern is definitely a bold choice, but the dramatic hourglass shape and cocoon sleeve lend a glimmer of timelessness. We can already imagine Lady Gaga in this look for the upcoming Joker: Folie a Deux press tour this fall.

In Mnisi’s words, “I grew up watching my mother and father getting ready for work, wearing these argyle printed pullovers, suits, ties, readying to take over the world. And then I’d turn to the TV and see a clown on screen adorned in the same fashions. And it made me think about how we choose roles and perform self. And how this can be rewarding, humiliating, challenging, exhilarating, and limiting all at the same time.”

The statement speaks volumes to the concept of ‘fashioning the self through clothes.’ The ability to simultaneously reclaim past narratives into a new present-day is part of the power of fashion. Mnisi invokes meaning into everyday garments and the wearer tells their own personal story through their participation.

To be honest, all of the Rich Mnisi coats are statement pieces (despite some questions re: fabrications) and since the weather is still in flux, consider this your invitation to make an investment in your future self.

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ON OUR RADAR

When dressing Hollywood pays off — Charles Harbison took the top crown at the 2024 Fashion Trust U.S. Awards this week plus: a financial grant and year-long mentorship. Oscar Award winner Da’Vine Joy Randolph was on hand to deliver Harbison his statue. (Link)

Early signs of spring? We’re loving this short chartreuse tea cup and saucer from Long Beach, California based ceramics brand Ekua Ceramics. (Link)

Perhaps a dramatic statement for the bedroom, but this noir linen duvet cover from upstate New York brand Linoto is quite beautiful and hand-crafted in Italian fabrics. (Link)

Sabrina Elba was spotted in Lagos wearing Look 1 from Vicnate and Adesuwa Aighewi’s jewelry brand Legacy World. These moments are very important. (Link)

Dover Street Market London has announced exclusivity on the Spring / Summer 2024 collection (also the first one) of British-based label Torisheju. It’s been a super rise for the brand — between Naomi Campbell and Alton Mason in their first show and securing the cover of British Vogue to dressing Zendaya in her first look for the Dune 2 press tour and now entering into one of the best concept stores out there. (Link)