054: Breaking Down NYFW & Archive Potential

HAPPY LABOR DAY ☀️

Welcome to the last weekend of summer. Fashion Month is officially kicking off next week with shows taking place in New York, London, Milan, and Paris.

The backdrop is decidedly more bleak given the significant shifts within the luxury fashion landscape — chalk it up to numerous pending creative director appointments, lagging creative innovation on the runways, or the dual-headed provocation of inflation and politics.

Inevitably, these factors amongst others have led shoppers to slow their consumption within these categories. That said, there is a case to be made for purchasing behavior shifting from behemoth luxury spend towards smaller special brands that might still cost a pretty penny, but ultimately may mean more personally. More to come!

As always, please reach us at [email protected] with any tips or questions.

DISPATCH 054 —

This week, we’re putting pen to paper on early fall wishlist items and saving the dates for South African Fashion Week. Plus: cover stars for Caribbean Couture and figurative beauties. But first, gearing up for NYFW…

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK BREAKDOWN

With one week to go, it is in fact just the right time to map out one’s plans for this NYFW season. It is shaping up to be a very robust schedule, so here’s a petite dossier to mull over.

SERGIO HUDSON — SEPTEMBER 7

Few do power dressing as well as Sergio Hudson. His shows are lively, the models are iconic (hello Veronica Webb), and his clients include political bonafides such as Vice President Kamala Harris, Former First Lady Michelle Obama, and Los Angeles Mayor Karen Bass. Sergio Hudson has definitely identified a lane and while not nearly as distributed as it could be (similarly to Harbison, who does not show at NYFW), the brand does lend itself well to occasion dressing. Hudson’s runway show has become the best vehicle to showcase his sartorial strengths.

OFF-WHITE — SEPTEMBER 8

Ib Kamara, in addition to his many other hats, has been keeping the pace with Off-White as the art and image director following the untimely passing of Virgil Abloh. For the first time ever, Off-White will be gracing the NYFW calendar with a SS25 runway show entitled “DUTY FREE” in the brand’s customary quotation marks. Kamara has managed a few editorial coups recently for Off-White, no doubt buoyed by his other day job running Dazed Magazine, but this will be a fitting opportunity to cut through the visual noise.

SEBASTIEN AMI — SEPTEMBER 11

We’re looking forward to seeing newcomer Sebastien Ami, albeit a four-year old brand, whose NYFW debut is supported by their finalist participation in the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund. Their upcoming show “LIFE” is a reflection of the brand’s journey to this point, the “see now / buy now” of it all, and how to navigate industry longevity in a trend-driven echo chamber.

For the rest of the schedule, click here.

EARLY FALL WARDROBE WISHLIST

The new arrivals from the Autumn / Winter 2024 collections are finally trickling into stores and online. With consideration for all budgets, please indulge in a sampling of what has caught our eye.

QUALITY STEAL

Martine Rose is still in the ‘steal’ territory, but not for long! As awareness has grown for the British brand in the past few years, there has been some solid momentum for her prices. We’ve talked about it before, but everyone is just catching up to Martine. The Rolled Cap is a gentler entry point and at first glance, it looks like your standard issue fare, but the intentional distressed detailing, branded tape, and embroidered artwork take things to the next level. If a bit more indulgent, this track jacket tote bag is such an iconic find — a forever classic imbued with the same energy Rose brought to her time leading Balenciaga Men’s.

ARCHIVE POTENTIAL

Our definition of archival potential leans more towards standout pieces that can integrate well into an evolving long-term style. Sometimes a collaboration item can make the cut — Wales Bonner has finally released the ready-to-wear items for its collaboration with Howard University. Can’t go wrong adding a Homecoming Varsity Jacket to the archive, but if not inclined, the Knit Vest is a simpler option. In the category of non-branded honorable mentions, this Cypher Polo Shirt in a collegiate silhouette is giving us all the feels for a cozy autumn season.

INVESTMENT PIECE

Despite recent financial performance, we’re still long Maximilian Davis for Ferragamo. There is plenty of room for his deft hand with sumptuous materials and his sharp perspective. We’ve observed more visibility for his ‘Hug’ accessories season after season, but this go around, we’re spotlighting two wool favorites — an Oversized Coat and Mini Skirt. Besides the fixed width belt being all over the runway, these pieces have an endearing quality to them given the fabrication and classic shapes.

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ON OUR RADAR

No gatekeeping! The duo behind BOTTER is the latest face on the September 2024 issue of ELLE Netherlands. Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh also guest curated the limited-edition issue with attention to their brand’s core values, including sustainability, supporting the next generation of fashion talent, and sharing secrets to building a creative career. Plus: Four is hosting an event to celebrate the brand in Amsterdam and you’re invited! (Link)

The official dates for South African Fashion Week have been revealed. Tap in September 24 through September 26 for showcases from over forty designers at Melrose Arch. (Link)

In Berlin? Expect more work from esteemed painter Danielle Mckinney, whose figurative small scapes of interior life are on a tear. The release of any Mckinney inventory is intentional, so if your art advisor can snag a piece in Germany, more power to you! Opens September 7. (Link)

The New Establishment Menswear nominees have been announced for the upcoming Fashion Awards hosted by the British Fashion Council — highlights include Nicholas Daley, Ahluwalia, and Labrum London. Winners will be revealed in December. (Link)